Easterly winds were forecast, dragging frigid air from Serbia – a bone-chilling -30°C to be precise. The dry air bit sharply with every breath, but it had its perks: unlike the damp Atlantic cold, this was manageable with the right clothing.
The Winter Mountain Leader assessment was looming, and we’d decided on two nights out to sharpen our skills. Timing was tight, as we could only head in after Josh finished work. At 9 p.m., with a cold and windy forecast ahead, we met up. Secretly, both of us hoped the other would suggest postponing, but neither did. Resolutely, we packed the van and set off for the Cairngorms ski car park.
Our plan was ambitious: head into Coire an t-Sneachda, ascend the Goat Track, and settle into a snow hole (fingers crossed it was unoccupied!). The next day would be dedicated to navigating in poor weather to refine our winter skills. To our surprise, the walk in was calm, with barely a whisper of wind. A nearly full moon illuminated the corrie so brilliantly we didn’t even need our head torches. Expectations shifted as the serene beauty around us inspired an impromptu idea: a night ascent of Aladdin’s Couloir en route to Coire Domhain.
The night kept improving. We reached our snow-holing site and found it blissfully empty. After a quick brew and some food, we meticulously organized our gear to ensure it stayed dry and accessible for the morning. Snow blocks were a game-changer, keeping the brew going while we stayed snug in our sleeping bags. Despite the shelter, the cold permeated everything. Any tiny draft woke us, sending us burrowing deeper into our down bags.
Morning broke with a -30°C chill, a stark reminder of the warnings issued for such severe temperatures. Yet, we embraced the challenge. Fueled by hot brews and food, we braved the frigid air and spent the day navigating around the Cairngorms, constantly moving to stave off the cold. By evening, we’d made it to Ciste Mhearad for our second night. Stubbornly, we decided to dig our own snow hole, even though plenty of pre-dug ones were available.
This choice came back to haunt us as we encountered rock-hard snow. Five grueling hours later, we finally had a modest cave with sleeping platforms and a small cooking area. Exhausted but determined, we ventured out for night navigation practice. The winds were ferocious, and we could barely hear each other, but the experience was exhilarating. Laughter replaced fatigue as we tackled the elements head-on. Returning to our snow hole, we brewed one last pot and prepared for the next day.
Final Morning: A Proper Scottish Send-Off
The final morning was the coldest yet. Keeping warm air inside the sleeping bag was a struggle. Josh took the lead in getting ready, freeing up space for me to eat and drink before my turn. In under 20 minutes, we were both packed and ready. Outside, it was classic Scottish weather: wild winds and low visibility – ideal for more navigation drills. Warming up on our descent, thoughts turned to the ultimate reward: breakfast.
The Mountain Café delivered in spades. We didn’t care that cake came before the cooked breakfast; it felt perfect after two nights in such demanding conditions. Reflecting on the adventure, we felt a profound sense of accomplishment. We’d tested ourselves against the harshest elements, honed our skills, and earned every bite of that well-deserved meal.
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