Memories on the Black Cuillin Ridge
I've had my fair share of memorable days in the mountains — an environment that provides my income, brings me joy, and allows me to share amazing experiences with awesome people. It keeps my body healthy and my mind free. It’s easy to take all this for granted, but some days remind you just how special it is to be part of someone else’s memories. Seeing someone’s grin over a vista you’ve seen a hundred times before, but experiencing it through their eyes, is pure magic.
Our two-day traverse of the Black Cuillin Ridge was one of those moments. My close friend Kevin had never even been to Skye, let alone set foot on the ridge. My brother and I had made our first attempt years ago, only to fail miserably — underprepared and, let’s face it, naïve about what we were taking on.
To make a successful traverse, you need the stars to align: conditions, group fitness, rope work, kit, and bivy sites all have to come together. The ridge is a serious undertaking, with sustained technical ground, heavy bags, and little respite. Even collecting water can feel like a chore.
Preparations and Challenges
We had three days for our traverse, and the forecast looked promising with stable high pressure and E-NE winds — ideal conditions. We decided to do a bivy run to minimize the weight in our bags for the main traverse. Heading up to An Dorus with empty containers, we planned to collect water en route and stash it on the ridge. A slight oversight soon became apparent: we’d forgotten most of the containers in the van. Not the best start! Still, we improvised, deciding I would make a water run once we reached the bivy site, enough to ensure Terry and Kevin could enjoy a cup of tea and dinner.
We aimed to bivy around Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh, a long, technical day that would allow a slightly more relaxed second day. After stashing our kit, it was time to hydrate and fuel up for a fresh start the next morning.
Day One: Tackling the TD Gap
An early start at 6:30 a.m. gave us plenty of time to enjoy the ridge. From Glen Brittle, we made a beeline for Coire a' Ghrunnda with empty water bottles, knowing the loch at the top of the corrie was a reliable source. The initial stages of the ridge can feel mentally taxing; it doesn’t seem like you’re covering much ground. By the time we’d bagged Eag and the Dubh, it was close to 11:30 a.m., with plenty of technical ground still ahead.
Kevin, eager to challenge himself, wanted to tackle the TD Gap. I’m not a huge fan of the gap — the approach is loose, and you can be held up for hours waiting for climbers. Luckily, the team ahead of us was efficient, and our timing was perfect. By the time we abseiled in, their second climber was just starting the ascent.
We geared up and discussed the route before I led up the polished steep groove. Terry followed steadily, surprised at how manageable it was. Then came Kevin’s turn. With only a few rock climbs under his belt, he was determined to give it his all. A few huffs and puffs later, he topped out, grinning ear to ear, proud of conquering one of the trickiest technical sections.
After a quick break, we pressed on, bagging Sgurr Alasdair and Mhídhonach. At the Inn Pinn, we were delayed by a team taking over two hours to summit. Fortunately, they let us abseil off, keeping us on schedule. High fives after the TD Gap fueled our spirits as we made fast progress toward Banachdich.
Bivy Bliss and Day Two
By evening, Kevin was mentally drained, doubting the technical sections ahead. We agreed to bivy and reassess in the morning. With a rolling cloud inversion stretching to the Outer Hebrides, we convinced Kevin this was a once-in-a-lifetime spot to bivy. After food, brews, and one of our pre-stashed beers, I headed back to retrieve water — a grueling task after a long day.
Waking at 5 a.m., I enjoyed the first rays of sunlight over the ridge. We chatted over breakfast about the day’s key sections, highlighting bypasses to ease the strain if needed. Energized, we tackled Mhadaidh and the next three tops, soaking in breathtaking views along the way.
The heat built as we approached Bidein Druim nan Ramh, where we opted for a dodge on the northern flank. Another abseil brought us to An Casteil, and we quickly covered ground with the last three summits in sight. Dropping our heavy bags for the final ascents of Am Basteir and Gillean, we savored the relief of climbing unburdened. The bad step on Am Basteir proved enjoyable, and we timed our climb of Gillean perfectly, avoiding long waits.
Reflections and Achievements
As we descended, Kevin couldn’t believe it: we’d completed the traverse. The doubts and challenges faded into pride and exhilaration. Over fish and chips, we reflected on achieving what, for many, is a lifetime ambition. Traversing the Black Cuillin Ridge is no small feat, but doing so in such memorable conditions made it truly unforgettable. Being part of someone’s journey and sharing moments of awe and triumph — that’s the magic of the mountains.
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