A Paddle Through Scotland’s Heartland: Linking Rivers and Lochs to Perth
This trip had been on my wish list for ages. With snow melting, temperatures rising, and a steady westerly wind, conditions were perfect for linking the rivers and lochs that lead all the way to Perth. My brother Stephen had done the journey before, calling it one of the best trips he'd ever experienced in Scotland—or anywhere else. He warned that the Garbh Gaur required heavy rainfall or snowmelt to bring the levels up and that the final rapid into Loch Eigheach was unforgettable. Inspired, I rallied a crew, and the adventure was on!
Planning and Day 1: Loch Ba to Loch Eigheach
We left a car at Loch Faskally to save time post-trip and then made our way to Glencoe, spending the night at the Clachaig Inn. Over dinner, we finalized plans, aiming for an early start at Loch Ba.
Alarm set for 7:00 AM, we began navigating the wild expanse of Loch Ba. The vastness of the wilderness around us brought a mix of excitement and anticipation. Abhainn Ba provided some gentle rapids to warm up before we sailed across Loch Laidon with the prevailing winds in our favor.
Reaching the Garbh Gaur, we packed away the sails, grabbed a bite, and readied ourselves for whitewater. The river lived up to its name—rough and noisy. The final rapid into Loch Eigheach, just as Stephen promised, was both steep and exhilarating. We pitched camp near the loch (NN 444,568), celebrated with a fire, and capped off the day with some well-earned food and a wee dram.
Day 2: Loch Eigheach to Dunalastair Reservoir
Morning greeted us with clear skies and a chilly breeze. After breakfast, we portaged around the power station and launched onto the River Gaur. The first Grade 4 rapid looked imposing, but with careful inspection and some quick paddling, we navigated it smoothly. The rest of the river provided thrilling rapids before depositing us into the calm waters of Loch Rannoch.
The wind on Loch Rannoch was fickle—one moment it propelled our sails, the next it vanished, leaving us to paddle against the cold. A few hours later, we reached the loch’s end, dismantled our rigging, and pressed on towards Dunalastair Reservoir. Campsites were scarce, but we found a dry patch on the southern shore (NN 702,579). Firewood was plentiful, and the warmth of the flames took the edge off a brisk day on the water.
Day 3: Dunalastair Reservoir to Loch Faskally
Determined to beat the day’s long shuttle, we packed up early and paddled to Clunie Dam. A straightforward portage brought us to the river below, which flowed low but navigable.
The Grade 4+ rapid in this section was the highlight—and most nerve-wracking—moment of the trip. My heart raced as I dropped into the technical line, aiming to stay right. Miraculously, I emerged upright and unscathed. Liam wasn’t as lucky; a clipped rock sent him swimming, but he surfaced smiling despite a soggy exit and a slightly battered boat.
Onward we paddled to Loch Tummel, greeted by a favorable westerly wind. The zigzag rapids were tight, but we squeezed through unscathed. At Linn of Tummel, memories of past mishaps reminded us to err on the side of caution, and we portaged around the falls.
Finally, we reached Loch Faskally, marking the end of our paddle. The lengthy shuttle back to Loch Ba gave us plenty of time to relive the adventure and laugh about the day’s escapades.
Reflections
This trip will stay with me for years—a blend of wild rapids, serene lochs, and great company. Whether it was navigating the Garbh Gaur, sailing across Loch Rannoch, or tackling the rapids near Clunie Dam, every moment was unforgettable. It’s these kinds of experiences that remind me why Scotland’s waterways are second to none.
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